Fast Fish and Red Wine

No! Not another new pair of super-heroes! (So slippery no one can catch her! So tannic, no one can swallow him!) In  fact, what we have here is a quick, easy, dinner centerpiece that goes great with reds (and whites). I was all hot to go see Jet Li’s last fast-fist and swift-sword epic, and time was short. We had an eighteen ounce filet of red snapper and too many cookbooks to scan. Enter the Basics. No, New Basics, by Rosso and Lukins, a failsafe tome for we weekend chefs-on-the-go. The snapper goes into a marinade of a scant quarter cup soy sauce, near tablespoon of toasted sesame oil, and a dash of hot sesame oil, with a giant clove of garlic, minced or pressed. We cut the marinade time to twenty minutes, whilst pre-heating the oven to 425. We baked marinade and fish together for twenty minutes in a oven-proof bowl. We washed salad and made white rice to make the snapper feel less lonely on the plate. Meantime, we had two bottles of reds open, both new to the co-op.

They are Rhones, one from Minervois, (2004 Ch. de Gourgazaud), the other from Cairanne, (2005 Le Pas de la Beaume). The Gourgazaud is a trifle weightier than the LPDLB, and more tannic. The alcohol feels higher, but who knows? The overarching taste is deep cherry, with a touch of garrigue, a brambly, wild, bushy taste/aroma. Also, it’s peppery, in typical Minervois fashion, so easy on the fresh-ground stuff when you season Monsieur Snapper. A bit peasanty, the cognoscenti might say, but an honest wine, and all for 9.99, with cases available. Dial down the intensity a little, and you have a wine from a venerable winehouse, Cave de Cairanne. More genteel, but still packs a red punch you won’t forget. More refined tannins, I feel, and a softer mouthfeel. Overall, less garrulous, but good enough for company. Also 9.99, with a case price even Halliburton can’t beat. A mere $80, (6.66 per bottle, twelve per case). Different strokes that will please everyone, I trust, if red is your preferred tint.

If you prefer white, I’d reach for a bottle of the classic Monmousseau Sauvignon Blanc. At 9.99, you’re saving $4.00. It’s minerally, dry, and a true Loire natural. Or maybe a bottle of Acacia Chardonnay, for 10.99, for a more full-bodied effect. Either way, you are in for a tasty good time.

Tonight it was brined roast chicken, in a takeoff from a Jamie Oliver (The Naked Chef) recipe. Tuck some fresh marjoram, thyme, salt, and olive oil under the skin. Rub some salt in the cavity, along with generous amounts of bay and rosemary. Our 3.5 pounder cooked in an hour, and t’was moist and succulent. On the side, roasted sweet potatoes, dressed in olive oil, salt’n pepper, and of course, rosemary. Tuscan kale, full of iron and other essentials, was kissed with balsamic, olive oil, and garlic, then pan heated on the stove top.

The wine could have been a run of the mill whatever, but I am a sucker for a good Chinon, an undiscovered Loire secret (for some people). It’s from Monmousseau, again, and ruby red, with golden highlights in the light playing through the wineglass. It’s medium-bodied, and almost tastes like a pinot, with a touch of some archaic grape of unknown provenance. It has a bit of grip, (tannin), but not too much, and a lovely, strawberry/rhubarb nose. Only $14.99 while it lasts, and it's also fantastic with turkey. It reminds me a little of the red Sancerre from Reverdy. Hope you enjoy the wines and the recipes. Time to upload. See you at the next tasting, in the co-op, on Saturday afternoon, November 18. Be there, or be squ-ware.

Comments

[Richard Gagnon]

I myself would go for a nice off-dry riesling with crab, but if your heart is set on red, any Cote du Rhone will be fine.

[gigi]

Hi, love the blog. This may be a remedial question, but I've yet to find anyone really addressing it: what are your suggestions for a tasty crab/red wine pairing? Cote du Rhone?

Thanks!