Vinofiles

Turkey News

First In-Store Tasting a Success

The co-op’s first in-store wine tasting, State of Vermont sanctioned and approved, took place from 3 to 7pm. in the Community Room. I was happy to see a lot of familiar faces, as well as some curious travelers who had wandered in at just the right moment. Although the state allows a maximum of six wines to be poured, and only four people tasting at one time, the crowd was quite enthusiastic. Some people signed a waiting list, similar to what good restaurants do, and eventually everyone got served. The responses ranged from “This is great! I’ll take a case,” to “This wine is boring. People actually like this?” The wine in question was our best-selling Pas de la Beaume, Cote du Rhone. My response, “It’s all about what you like. There’s something for everyone.”
The lineup went like this, and each one was picked with turkey and goose in mind:

• 2005 Argiolas Costamolino (Vermentino)--$11.99--save $1.00
• 2005 Ch. Ducasse White Bordeaux (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon)--$11.99--save $1.00
• 2005 Morgan Unoaked Chardonnay (Monterey)--$19.99
• 2005 Pas de la Beaume, Cote du Rhone (Grenache and Syrah)--$9.99--save $2.00
  Case Sale Price $80.00, save $40.00
• 2004 Monrosso Chianti (Sangiovese) $12.99--save $2.00
• 2004 Juan Gil, from Jumilla, Spain (Monastrell)--$17.99--save $2.00

All the various wines had people heading for the shelves afterwards, and the hottest numbers seemed to be the Morgan Chardonnay and the Juan Gil Monastrell. Both are limited in supply, so step up soon if you’re interested. Thanks to all who came, and thanks to the cheese department for their selections, which complemented the wines.And a special thanks to the nice woman, heretofore a total stranger, who kept me company as I cleaned up after the crowds went home. We had a stimulating conversation about everything from modern manners to the war in Iraq. People continue to surprise me, usually for the better.

Our next in-store tasting will be in early December, part of an ongoing once-a-month series. Think of it as a prelude to our whopper of a tasting at the Flat St. Pub, on Dec. 15, from 5:30-8:00. You can buy tickets in the wine department from me for $15. per person. Parties of 50 or larger should start their own restaurant...

Last Minute Turkey Helper

On the run and too busy to read all the wine notes and signs posted in the wine department? Here’s a list of surefire winners to make your holiday shine.

Taurino Salice Salentino $9.99
Monmousseau ‘Chinon’ Cabernet Franc $14.99
Pas de la Beaume-Cote du Rhone $9.99
Monrosso Chianti $12.99
Juan Gil Monastrell $17.99
Cline Zinfandel $9.99
KVintner’s ‘House Red’ $9.99
Vinos-Sin-Ley ‘G-5’ $14.99
Pinol-Ludovicus $9.99
Pinol-Portal $14.99
Cave de Cairanne-’Cuvee Antique’ $19.99

Argiolas Costamolino (Vermentino) $11.99
Ch. Ducasse White Bordeaux $11.99
Morgan Unoaked Chardonnay $19.99
Kuentz-Bas Riesling $9.99
Ch. la Rame White Bordeaux $14.99
Ipsum Rueda-$7.99
Stonehedge Sauvignon Blanc $9.99
Dancing Nymph Riesling $14.99
Cline Viognier $10.99

As always, I’ll be in the wine department to assist. See you there!

Two Upcoming Tastings

The Co-op's first historic folkloric and hardly sophomoric in-store wine tasting will take place this Saturday, November 18, between 3 and 7 in the pm, in the Community Room. We will feature six new wines and some delectable cheeses from our stellar cheese department. The wines are geared toward pairing with traditional Thanksgiving fare.

The state of Vermont, unfortunately, has put a few speed bumps in your way. A maximum of four (4) customers may be in the room at one time. This may slow the process down a bit, but please be patient. There will be a sign-up sheet to "reserve" your place in line, if you happen to come at a particularly busy moment.

The Co-op will be sponsoring one tasting per month, as allowed by Vermont liquor regulations. We will showcase new wines and we would appreciate your suggestions and feedback. Watch this blog for dates of upcoming tastings.

A large-scale holiday wine tasting will happen on Friday, December 15, 5:30-8pm, downstairs at the Flat Street Pub. The entrance fee is still a modest $15 and tickets will be available for sale in the wine department. As always, special full-case and mixed case deals will be available. You are encouraged to "share a case" with friends. Food to tantalize your tastebuds will be served, provided by the Co-op under the masterful tutelage of Carol Grumbine-Hall.

We look forward to seeing you on Saturday, Nov. 18, and on Friday, Dec. 15.

Recipes from Juan

You've already had the pleasure of meeting, through this blog, Juan Carlos Pagola Langer and his Undurraga Carmenere. He's been kind enough to share a couple of his recipes to pair with his excellent red wine. As it happened, I hadn't yet read his email in time to use his recipe in preparing a roast leg of lamb that we bought from the farmers market. So, next time...

The local distributor for the Carmenere assures me that we'll have this wine in time for Thanksgiving.

Thanks again to Juan and the great folks at Undurraga, and also at Masciarelli Importers.

Welcome Juan, and the Carmenere

One of the pleasures of the wine business is meeting new people, especially citizens of lands I’ve never visited. The human commonalities are immediately evident, but the perceived “foreignness” is an amalgam of subtle differences and similarities, almost like a song you’ve heard before, but where? The cadences of language, the juxtaposition of verb and subject in a way that causes a smile, but reveals an innocence and a desire to learn, but also the willingness to be mutually discovered. “Here I am. I’m new here. Let’s talk about wine. English sure is interesting to speak.” These words, (in fact, unspoken), sort of hung in the air, for about five seconds, until Juan Pagola smiled and spoke. Warmth and enthusiasm for life, work, family, right viticulture, and wine, too, were all out front as we sampled a new Reserve Carmenere from Undurraga.

Years ago, this grape was brought over from France, to Chile. It was “mislabeled” merlot, until 1990, when an oenologist ended two hundred years of mistaken identity. This grape has too much personality to be (sorry) mistaken for merlot. A gorgeous body and legs, (all legitimate wine terms, thank you), with a mouth-feel like Paris...whoops. (My editor just shut me down. Back to business.) The wine reminds me a bit of malbec, with a touch of tempranillo, only with more authority. It is silky smooth, and will stand up to a roast or steak. The wine has a polished feeling, without being forced or scripted. It has a “family vineyard” feeling, pretty good stuff from a company that makes 1.2 million cases of wine a year. We are hoping to see it in the co-op soon, at a very reasonable 11.99. Hats off to Masciarelli of Massachusetts, the importer, for helping to make this wine a reality, and a warm welcome to Undurraga’s Juan Pagola, soon to put down roots in America with his new bride. Muchas gracias.

New and Hot

Here are some recently tasted wines, due to arrive on Friday, Nov. 10. All will pair nicely with turkey or goose, with the exception of the ‘Eloge’ cabernet. Only one is under 9.99, but the rest are about celebrating, spoiling yourself and your friends. As Bernie says, share the wealth!

•‘04 Encore-(California)-Unusual white blend, made from five grapes, off-dry, elegant-14.99-save 2.00

•’05 Morgan ‘Metallico’Chardonnay-(California)-The first California chardonnay that’s made me go WOW! in a long time. True French Chablis style, fresh and steely, very silky, lovely nose. This Monterey white is a subtle knockout!-19.99

•’04 Frog’s Leap Chardonnay-(California)-This organic white is actually bio-dynamic, and loaded with aromas and flavors of green apples, and fresh laundry. Smooth, not too heavy, and very crisp.-25.99

•’05 Evans and Tate Chardonnay-(Australia)-Similar to the Morgan, though a little leaner, and less ‘French,’ but the fruit is more assertive, with melon and pineapple aromas and essences. Great example of the progress being made ‘down under’-16.99

‘04 Acacia’Winery Lake Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-(Napa-Carneros)-A big, slightly mononlithic red, with deep, deep flavors: chocolate, dried strawberries, tobacco and leather, plum and spicebox. Decant this when the bird goes in the oven, and it’ll be ready when you sit down for dinner. Or put it down for a couple years. 29.99

•’01 Taurino Salice Salentino-(Italy)-A silky smooth blend of Negromaro and Nero d’Avola, and the BEST example of this wine in years. Quintessential Italian nose, all cherries, herbs, and licorice stick. I bought all that was available, and we won’t see more until mid-December. SALE PRICE 9.99-save 3.00

•’01 Castello diBossi Chianti Classico-(Italy-Tuscany)-This ‘01 is actually a riserva. Marco Bocci leaves off the designation for ‘reasons Italian’ and it makes no matter to me. You get oodles of cherry, licorice, and toasty oak flavors and aromas.The soil is chalky, and that nice dried fruit flavor comes right through. SALE PRICE 19.99-save 5.00.

•’00 Reserva Montecillo Rioja-(Spain)-We sell a ton of the ‘01 red label Montecillo. This is the big sister, who is strong, but mellow. A great example of what a mature Rioja can be. SALE PRICE 16.99-save 3.00.

•’00 Anderson’s Conn Valley Cabernet ‘Eloge’-(Napa)-A meritage blend, (American bordeaux style) of cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot. Not a heavy hitter, (the name means ‘praiseworthy’) but very big flavored, without the too-toasty oak to weigh it down. Lots of chocolate, some eucalyptus aromas, and a subtle, nuanced finish. SALE PRICE 27.99.

•’03 Dom. du Gros Nore-(France-Bandol)-We sold about forty cases of the 2000 Bandol about a year ago, at a fabulous closeout price, a ‘gift’ from the distributor. This 2003 is equal to it, even though it’s pretty young. The flavors are saturated, balanced, and harmonious. The nose is all lavender, and you may want to just sit and sniff the gorgeous aromas emanating from your glass. When you’re ready, though, the flavors are, too. Deep chocolate, cocoa, strawberry/raspberry and a brambly undertone, almost like a passing breeze filled with fresh rosemary. A spectacular wine, ready to decant and enjoy. It’ll stand up to cranberry sauce, too. It’s 24.99, and unfortunately, available only in very limited quantities.

Fast Fish and Red Wine

No! Not another new pair of super-heroes! (So slippery no one can catch her! So tannic, no one can swallow him!) In  fact, what we have here is a quick, easy, dinner centerpiece that goes great with reds (and whites). I was all hot to go see Jet Li’s last fast-fist and swift-sword epic, and time was short. We had an eighteen ounce filet of red snapper and too many cookbooks to scan. Enter the Basics. No, New Basics, by Rosso and Lukins, a failsafe tome for we weekend chefs-on-the-go. The snapper goes into a marinade of a scant quarter cup soy sauce, near tablespoon of toasted sesame oil, and a dash of hot sesame oil, with a giant clove of garlic, minced or pressed. We cut the marinade time to twenty minutes, whilst pre-heating the oven to 425. We baked marinade and fish together for twenty minutes in a oven-proof bowl. We washed salad and made white rice to make the snapper feel less lonely on the plate. Meantime, we had two bottles of reds open, both new to the co-op.

They are Rhones, one from Minervois, (2004 Ch. de Gourgazaud), the other from Cairanne, (2005 Le Pas de la Beaume). The Gourgazaud is a trifle weightier than the LPDLB, and more tannic. The alcohol feels higher, but who knows? The overarching taste is deep cherry, with a touch of garrigue, a brambly, wild, bushy taste/aroma. Also, it’s peppery, in typical Minervois fashion, so easy on the fresh-ground stuff when you season Monsieur Snapper. A bit peasanty, the cognoscenti might say, but an honest wine, and all for 9.99, with cases available. Dial down the intensity a little, and you have a wine from a venerable winehouse, Cave de Cairanne. More genteel, but still packs a red punch you won’t forget. More refined tannins, I feel, and a softer mouthfeel. Overall, less garrulous, but good enough for company. Also 9.99, with a case price even Halliburton can’t beat. A mere $80, (6.66 per bottle, twelve per case). Different strokes that will please everyone, I trust, if red is your preferred tint.

If you prefer white, I’d reach for a bottle of the classic Monmousseau Sauvignon Blanc. At 9.99, you’re saving $4.00. It’s minerally, dry, and a true Loire natural. Or maybe a bottle of Acacia Chardonnay, for 10.99, for a more full-bodied effect. Either way, you are in for a tasty good time.

Tonight it was brined roast chicken, in a takeoff from a Jamie Oliver (The Naked Chef) recipe. Tuck some fresh marjoram, thyme, salt, and olive oil under the skin. Rub some salt in the cavity, along with generous amounts of bay and rosemary. Our 3.5 pounder cooked in an hour, and t’was moist and succulent. On the side, roasted sweet potatoes, dressed in olive oil, salt’n pepper, and of course, rosemary. Tuscan kale, full of iron and other essentials, was kissed with balsamic, olive oil, and garlic, then pan heated on the stove top.

The wine could have been a run of the mill whatever, but I am a sucker for a good Chinon, an undiscovered Loire secret (for some people). It’s from Monmousseau, again, and ruby red, with golden highlights in the light playing through the wineglass. It’s medium-bodied, and almost tastes like a pinot, with a touch of some archaic grape of unknown provenance. It has a bit of grip, (tannin), but not too much, and a lovely, strawberry/rhubarb nose. Only $14.99 while it lasts, and it's also fantastic with turkey. It reminds me a little of the red Sancerre from Reverdy. Hope you enjoy the wines and the recipes. Time to upload. See you at the next tasting, in the co-op, on Saturday afternoon, November 18. Be there, or be squ-ware.

Golden Oldies: Always There, (almost) and Always Satisfying

Keeping the wine section stocked with five or six hundred high quality, reasonably priced wines probably sounds easy, and it is...But, only if the universe plays along, and it doesn’t always listen. Fortunately, there is a pretty good sized core of wines we manage to stock on close to a year-round basis. These wines may be something you take for granted, like that comfortable pair of slippers under your bed. When you can’t find them, there is a brief panic, and a sense of relief when they show up, a little dusty, but still your best friend. That’s our golden oldies, and here are a few that you folks have welcomed into your homes, time and again. Since every new vintage begins a fresh adventure, like a recipe you keep tweaking over the years, it’s always fun to see what they’re up to.

Last year I got reacquainted with a wine importer called Masciarelli, based in Boston. They specialize in Italian wines, but have a heavy French portfolio, too. One of the best dry French white values we’ve ever sold is their Monmousseau Sauvignon Blanc, from the town of Touraine, in the Loire Valley, just south of Paris. Because we buy it in bulk, by the pallet, (56 cases) the usual 13.99 price becomes 9.99, and you save a bundle. (Masciarelli had told us that the 2005 vintage was sold out, but we cried loud and long, and one last pallet appeared.) The wine is a teriffic example of the crisp, clean tasting whites that the Loire is famous for. The flavor is strong, but not overpowering. Upfront, we taste flavors and catch aromas reminiscent of grapefruit, peaches, apple, and pineapple. A “steely” taste surrounds all this, and finishes with a touch of what wineguys and gals call residual sugar, a hint of sweetness, which rounds out the flavor. This lovely white can be paired with spicy Thai food, or enjoyed with a fresh baguette and a gooey, room-temperature dollop of Quercy, my favorite “stinky cheese.” It also makes a natural partner with turkey or goose.

Another favorite, this time from Sonoma, California, is Cline Viognier. It’s usually 10.99, unless it’s on sale for 9.99. If you never tried a Viognier (vee-awn-yay), this is your chance. Cline just gets better at honing this varietal, originally from France, and makes it in a style that is immensely pleasing. Think of Sauvignon Blanc, but without all the angularity. Add a touch of honeydew, and honeysuckle, with some Granny Smith for texture, and voila! Viognier. It can be a bit higher in alcohol, sometimess approaching 15%, but the plus side is that the wine becomes even smoother. For contrast, try a French Viognier, such as Ch. Lascaux, from the Languedoc, deep in the south of France. It’s blended with some Marsanne and Rousanne, which add weight and some smoothness, and a light dusting of residual sugar on the finish. Viognier loves strong cheeses of all stripes, and has an affinity for apricot infused pork. (Now, a few words about something we usually don’t stock, but an amazing wine experience.) There is nothing to compare to true-blue Condrieu, the ultimate expression of the Viognier grape. Think of it as you would a really good single-malt. It’s no-nonsense, take-it-or-leave-it wine, firing on all cylinders. The flavors are ramped up, yet there is a sublime, nuanced side that cries out for reflection. The best Condrieu are superb balancing acts between sweetness and acidity. Some Condrieu is closer to dessert wine than a true dinner wine. To be sure, ask the experts. PS. It’s expensive, but worth it.

From Italy comes one of my favorite organic whites, San Quirico, a Vernaccia made in Tuscany, not far from the hill town of San Gimignano. (San Gimignano is famous for it’s leather goods. Haggle with the merchants, as they expect it, and you’ll probably get a better deal. I did.) For 12.99, you get a lot of wine. It’s medium-bodied, pleasantly viscous, coating your tongue with flavor. I find a nutty, almost Macadamia aroma and flavor, right up front. There is a flowery feeling going on, and a overall dryness, but your mouth feels refreshed, not parched. Try some pasta with garlic and olive oil, capers and sundried tomatoes, (anchovies, too, if you love the salt), and a cool glass of this organic white. By the way, the owner of the vineyard is a sweeheart of a guy, who looks sixty, but is probably seventy-five. He ran up and down the hillsides like a mountain goat, leaving this Vermonter in the dust.

Yet another of my favorite organic whites is from a producer called Argiolas. The grape is Vermentino, and the wine is called Costamolino. At 10.99, it’s a steal. Lighter and more aromatic than the San Quirico, it’s made for fish. I love it with scallops. The minerality comes through clean and crisp, with a faint scent that trails eucalyptus and sea roses across your palate. These two Italian wines are imported by a great company called Winebow, run by a fellow named Leonardo Locascio. I won a sales contest a few years ago, and traveled to Tuscany with a group of thirteen wine professionals. We had quite the time, and you can read about it in another blogsection.