Vinofiles

Sorry I took so long

Mirrors on the Ceiling, (and Thunderbird on Ice), plus Even More New Wines

If you’ve ever attended an airport-sized trade show, you understand the phenomenon of being lonely in a crowd.The roughly 43,000 attendees at the Anaheim/ExpoWest/Natural Foods Show were packed in cheek-by-smile, taking the pulse of the industry. If you met someone you knew, (Remember, Brattleboro is a mere 13,000 souls), all the better. Fortunately, I had arranged to meet one of my favorite people in the wineworld, Katrina Frey, who had convinced me to make the trek westward. She informed me that a huge, all-organic beer and wine tasting was to occur, and that an impressive number of producers would be showing their wares. Many names on the producer list were unknown to me, so chances were good that these new and emerging wineries were seeking representation in New England. It sounded like a dream come true.

Alex, our stalwart manager, stamped my passport, and off I went, with Meg McCarthy, veteran of many wine-scavenging hunts, hard by my side. You’ve already heard too much about my San Francisco blues, so let’s talk about the part of the trip that really worked, namely the tasting in Anaheim. The crowd filled a huge ballroom, and libations were being served California style, straight out of old cowboy boots. (Organic leather, naturally.) Here’s a short list of some of the folks we met, making organic wine and beer: Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing, Organic Vintners, (huge collection of wines, some of which we are carrying already), The Organic Wine Works, (John Shumacher at the helm), SBS Imports, Frey Vineyards, (Katrina’s Gram was from Brattleboro!), the Stellar Winery of South Africa, La Rocca Vineyards, Peak Organics (Great beer!), Casa Barranca Wines, Butte Creek Brewing, Sogno Winery, Barra Wines of Mendocino, HoneyRun Meads, and Girasole Vineyards, to name a few. Judging by the roar of the crowd, I’d say the event was a success, and I’d love to go back. Dale, Katrina’s dad, was helping pour their wines, and even though he’s at least ninety-seven, he only seems to be getting younger. It must be the organic wine.

Because the wheels of bureauracracy spin slowly, we have seen only a few entries from the new folks, but I have patience, and before long the organic wine and beer offerings will be even more replete. Actually, we have four new wines from Organic Wine Works; Surfin’Syrah, Cote Zero, StoneCold Cabernet, and Viperous Viognier. All in the recently re-located organic section, facing the deli. Keep your eyes peeled for more gems, including some Fair Trade wines.

In other related news...Way back last year, the coop introduced a line of wines from the Morgan Winery, based in Salinas, California. Their Rhone-style red Cote-du-Crows made a big splash, soon to be followed by their Twelve Clones Pinot Noir, Franscioni Vineyard Pinot Gris, Metallico Un-oaked Chardonnay, Highlands Chardonnay, SunPower Sauvignon Blanc, and the recently added Lee Family Farm Verdelho and Rose. All incredible wines, and at great prices. To find out how they do it, Meg and I disguised ourselves as honeybees, and hung around outside the winery, humming “Red, Red Wine,” by Neil Diamond, really loud, whilst wearing signs that read, “Will Work for Pollen.”

Suddenly, Morgan’s national sales and marketing manager, the suave and dashing Brad Martin, pulled into his private parking space in a brand new, tangerine-metalflake Bentley. (This guy is smooth.) Brad saw us, and because he’s allergic to bees, reacted faster than a super-hero, and hosed us down with some chardonnay juice with a really bad case of stuck fermentation. My antennae wilted, Meg’s wings were blown away, and my stinger was history. Brad immediately saw through our pitiful ruse, and took us to Gonzalez, to his favorite Mexican restaurant, for some squid tacos to cheer us up. We had such a great time. Then we went out to the Double L vineyard, to meet some real bees, and get buzzed with enthusiasm for their organic vineyard program, and even taste some new wines back in Salinas. It was a truly special day, and all the folks at Morgan are doing a fantastic job.

After waving goodbye to the Morgan family, we headed up the road, way up the road, to the top of a plateau near The Pinnacles National Monument, home to Chalone Winery. We were tired, and needed a wing massage. The masseuse had the night off, so we sat on the guest house deck, and watched the sunset. Eventually the stars came out, and shone down on our little piece of high chaparral heaven. We couldn’t see or hear any evidence of civilization from our perch. As we ate the last of our picnic-style dinner, a single microscopic fleck of interstellar spacedust scraped briefly against the troposphere, an incandescent wink that semaphored hello and goodbye to the fireflies huddled together for warmth in the oak tree over our head. It wasn’t Vermont, but it was close enough.

Chalone vineyard from the guest house deck

In the morning, we had an appointment with Michaelson Waller, who showed us the ropes around Chalone. We tasted some wines from barrel, which I always enjoy. There’s something indefinable about barrel sampling, in that the wines always taste extra fresh, with nothing else mediating the experience. Chardonnays sing, cabernets coo, pinots purr, and merlots aren’t mum. Then it was off to the tasting room for all the new stuff, which you’ll find on the shelf at the coop. Chalone, now owned by a company called Diageo, is also proud of their chardonnays from the Edna Valley Vineyard. We didn’t have time to stop there on our way north, but maybe next time.

PS. if you’re in Salinas, there’s a great wine section in the Star Market, around the corner from the Carl Jr.’s. Found an interesting Zinfandel called “Poizin”, with a red skull and crossbones painted on the label. Avast!

I’m a little sore from chainsaw work, so the Herman Melville in me has to take a break. But first, a brief listing of new arrivals. But even before that, we must announce the “Bye-Bye Barn”. This is our brand new spot for closeouts, and small lot wines. The prices are low, quality high, and they’ll go fast! So, check it out, and enjoy the bargains. To wit: Save $4 on Rocking Horse Zinfandel (regularly $14), with scratched labels. See the rest for yourself, next to the Spanish wines, under the “barn” sign designed and drawn by my dog, Pearl.
New Arrivals

Reds
Dominio de Tares--(Bierzo, Spain)--9.99 In the Bye-Bye Barn, while it lasts.
Oops! Carmenere/Cabernet Franc--(Chile)--9.99
Bieler Rose-(Provence)--9.99
Toscolo Chianti--(Tuscany)--10.99
Razor’s Edge Shiraz--(Australia)--10.99
Grande Cassagne Rose--(France)--11.99 New rose, quite elegant
Lee Family Farm Rose--(Monterey California)--12.99 You might mistake it for French.
DiPaolo Aglianico--(Campania, Italy)--14.99 Not as earthy as some, smooth and dry.
Babich Pinot Noir--(New Zealand)--14.99
Ladakis Greek Red--17.99 A big, bold, smoothie, with a huge spice nose.
Petalos--(Bierzo, Spain)--19.99 A Mencia monster! Huge flavor and aromas to die for. Rated 90 pts.
Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Zinfandel--(Alexander Valley, California)--19.99 Hot new zin.
Yard Dog Red--(Australia)--9.99 Shiraz and more, and lots of Petit Verdot. Excellent value!

Whites
Grande Moulin Chardonnay--(France)--7.99 An affordable white to quaff all summer! In the Bye-Bye Barn.
Peche Imperiale Bubbly--(France)--11.99 A wonderful aperitif, excellent with Huevos Rancheros
Lee Family Farm Verdelho-(Alta Mesa, California)--12.99 Snappy, crisp, and smooth, Sauvignon style
Babich Sauvignon Blanc--(New Zealand)--14.99
Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Chardonnay--(Russian River, California)--19.99 For serious fans of the grape.
Indaba Chenin Blanc--(South Africa)--8.99
Biso White 1.5 liter--(Italy)--9.99
Yard Dog White--(Australia)--9.99 A dry blend so smooth...

And soon, soon...A Sauternes for under $20, a German Eiswein for under $20, and new vintages of the fantastic Ole! Imports wines, such as Ipsum, Portal, Ludovicus, Zestos Especial, and their new M series, of Monastrell wines. It’s looking pretty great out here! Bag some briquettes and get cookin’!

Weeks pass...I absolutely have to post this! Please don’t miss the splits of French white wine, a Sauvignon Blanc, and a fabulous Chablis. Also, a fantastic closeout on a $25 white Burgundy for 9.99. PS Ipsum is back, 2006 vintage, and we still have the awesome low price of 7.99, save 2.00. Summer’s here! Ride a bike. Paddle a canoe. Entertain your friends. Write a poem. Enjoy being you.

April Shower of New Stuff

The Spring Wine Round-up
Despite a near constant state of illness since late February, we’ve somehow managed to keep the good stuff coming. New offerings range from Australia to Greece, and points between. My guilty conscience demands that I give you an exhaustive cataloguing, with detailed notes on each wine, but I am so far behind... So, we’ll give you the complete list, an occasional highlight, and I’ll try to get caught up. Ready to dig in?

Reds
Wishing Tree Shiraz--10.99
Cuq Merlot--Organic--11.99
Nuevomondo Cabernet/Malbec--Organic--13.99
LeSec Rubis Cote d Rhone--14.99
Falset ‘Blue Label’ Montsant Blend--9.99
Moon Mt. Cabernet--15.99
Ch. de Bastet Cote d Rhone--Organic--15.99
Valori Montepulciano--15.99
LeSec Vacqueyras Red Rhone-21.99
Stignano (Tuscany)--39.99  Celebrate, or put it down for a few years.
Sant’Angelo (Montepulciano)--49.99 Ditto!
Leila Garnacha-Argentina--Organic--7.99
Ochoa Tempranillo/Garnacha--Organic--9.99
Our Daily Red--Organic--8.99 Our best selling organic red!
Secret de Campane--8.99--New! The perfect everyday red, only $77/case.
Enciro Monastrell/Merlot(Spain)--9.99--Tasty surprise at this price.
Postales Malbec--9.99
Puerta Malbec--9.99
Tinka-Tonka Malbec--9.99
Drince-Lotta Malbec--9.99
Razor’s Edge Shiraz--10.99
Hill of Content Grenache/Shiraz--13.99
Distinto Tempranillo/Syrah--9.99
Le Grand Cabernet/Syrah (France)--9.99
Boschetto Merlot (Italy)--9.99
Lidakis-Archanes (Greece)--15.99--Tastes like an older Rioja. Excellent!
Sincerity Merlot/Cabernet-Organic--15.99
Menage a Trois Zin/Merlot/Cabernet--Organic--12.99
Four Vines Zinfandel ‘The Maverick’--19.99--Rated 92 points by the Wine Spectator!
And two bottles of a hard to find Amarone, for $100.

Whites
Honora Chardonnay-14.99--Made in Vermont, from California grapes.
Newhaven Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand)--11.99
Sincerity Chardonnay--Organic--15.99
Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul--9.99--Remember this? Crisp Sauvignon Blanc style.
Carmen Sauvignon Blanc (Chile)--9.99
Razor’s Edge Chardonnay (Australia)--10.99
LaPuerta Torrontes--9.99
Il Prosecco (in a cool bottle, with a bottle cap)--12.99
Crossings Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) --14.99
Madfish Riesling (Australia)--14.99
Paul Metz Pinot Blanc-(Alsace)--14.99
Valori Trebbiano-15.99
Vendrell Cava Brut--Organic--17.99
Cortijo (Spain)--7.99
I count forty new wines, and two McGuffins. That means a lot of fun new stuff to try, and more to come. As always, your feedback, pro and con, is appreciated. Enjoy!

Brew News
A local distributor, g. Housen, has picked up two new beers from Rodenbach, one of the premier Belgian brewers. The Grand Cru almost tastes like...sorry...not my fault...wine. An acquired taste, yes, but amazingly satisfying, with that trademark sour/bitter edge that makes these beers stand out from the crowd. The other beer is a so-called Flemish, being a mixture of 75% new beer, and 25% oak aged beer. Tasted pretty good to me. We’re hoping to see more challenging ales and such coming down the pike from g. Housen, as the man-behind-the-scenes, Scott, has plans for world domination, via high quality beer. All hail, Scott!

The Dogfish boys from Maryland have released their seasonal Aprihop, in a 4-pack. Also, the same packaging approach has been taken by Vermont’s own Rock Art folks, releasing their, (can’t write this with a straight face) Magnumus ete Tomahawkus Extreme 8% alcohol, 80 IBU Ale, (ESB squared). Please ignore the “This ain’t for no Mama’s Boy or Daddy’s Girl” come-on. The real story is inside the bottle, smooth and solid.

Berkshire Brewing, who has a nice little pub on Flat St., has released their Maibock, and Otter Creek ditto with their Cuckoo Bock. From beer maven Ray McNeill, Reagin’s Stout, the tail end of the Imperial IPA, Imperial Stout, and the limited-edition 18% alcohol monster, Blunderbuss. You must have an up-to-date NRA membership card to purchase this fine brew, available only in unique, collectible, eight gallon black bottles, shaped like an authentic, Pirate’s aboard! shootin’ iron.

Fresh from the tanks of Magic Hat comes a stealth organic offering, Orlio. Stealth because the Hat appears nowhere on the package, and there’s no hint that is even brewed by elves or anything. Suffice to say that the Common Ale, and the IPA are worthy of a place on our shelves. Look for it next to the Wolaver’s.

Winter Wonderland

After an extended vacation, the Vinofiles hath returned!  We bring news of fresh wines, and special deals on some items already in-house. The Wine & Beer department’s own Hugh Keelan will soon be adding a few words, having attended this latest tasting. I’m sure he’ll have a provocative slant on things, especially since I caught him red-handed scrawling some scurrilous grafitti, reading “ Death to Ri...” We can only imagine what he was thinking.

Since we don’t have any snow to speak of, we are throwing a little white sale, hoping to stimulate production. First up is the white companion to our old friend Cortijo Tempranillo. It’s a 100% Viura, nicely dry Sauvignon Blanc-styled offering. The Cortijo is similar to Ipsum, perhaps a bit less lemony, and sells for a paltry $5.99. That’s right, only six petrodollars, and you save $3.00 off the regular price. There’s a new vintage a’coming in May, so our distributor wants the last of it to go away, and pronto. We are only happy to oblige, so help them out, please. There is no “super special” case price, as the discounted price is already quite low. So, throw a party, and maybe it’ll snow.

Staying in the Sauvignon Blanc vein, we’re proud to offer up the ever-steady and reliable Ch. Ducasse White Bordeaux, for a solid $3.00 off, a mere $9.99. This price hasn’t been seen for at least two years, and we bought twenty cases, with more available, I am told. This is a classic dry Bordeaux, with a touch of Semillon thrown in for structure and a hint of sweetness on the finish. Down in Bordeaux, they’d be shucking oysters, spearing scallops, maybe even ropin’n ridin’ a passel of mussels, all to be washed down with this terriffic white. Or, it could accompany a nice, hot, steaming dish of maple syrup-on-snow. All right, I’ve worn out my welcome. A bientot to you too.

From Trentadue of Sonoma County we have a blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Carignane. Called Old Patch Red, it’s definitely not your average fruit bomb, but a more measured response to the question, “Just why are we fighting in California?” Confused? Don’t be. For $13.99, just try this succulent red with a Portabella and smoked gruyere melt and you’ll see why a surge in your belly is worth two in the Bush.

If it’s more white you’re craving, we have a new, off-dry blend from Hedges, whom you may recall, make a hearty Cabernet based Washington State blend we picked up a month or so ago. Called CMS, just like the red, only the grapes are Chardonnay, Marsanne, and Sauvignon Blanc. The Marsanne, a Rhone grape often paired with Viognier and Rousanne, takes over the nose and the up-front flavor. In a minute or two it backs off, allowing the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to gently clamor for your attention. Nicely balanced, especially with a spicy tomato soup, or a platter of sushi, with a ton of spicy ginger and wasabi. Only $11.99.

Picture this: Trucked east, at great speed, comes several tons of Chardonnay grapes, to be made into wine at Halifax, Vt., (or perhaps in Wilmington, still not sure.) Honora is the name, and Peter Systo is the winemaster. The flavor reminds me of Monterey, or maybe the Sonoma Coast. It’s light, has some oak, and will grace any table you set, for only $14.99. We look forward to seeing more from these folks, and to tasting what Halifax has in store.

Those of you with long memories may recall a Sangiovese called Monastero. The 2003 is once again on our shelves, and tastes crisp and mellow. The perfect everyday red, at $9.99.

On the subject of beer, Ray McNeill garnered some very favorable write-ups in the latest issue of BeerDictator. Three fine beer critics allowed some extremely generous praise for his Ruby Amber Ale. We’ll print some quotes in the next blog, as well as some WOW (words of wisdom) from our own Hugh Keelan. Until then, drink responsibly, and say a prayer for the spirit of Barbaro.

Sure, It’s Cold, but We’re Hot

November lingered like the sweet scent of wisteria after an autumn rainstorm, hanging on the breeze, before the last storm blew it all away. We had our hot days, (relative to the season), and even our own hot nights, until the metal-grey blasts of December kicked down our door, showed us the badge, and said, “Parties’ over, pal.” And so we piled up more firewood, or called the oil company, lit up the crockpot to make a gallon of chili, and admitted that winter was here, and what kept you? Long dark days need a special kind of perspective, to keep it real, and keep us smiling. You visit friends, enjoy the Tamworth piggy and lamb they graciously set out, and dust off the wines you have set aside for “the right moment.” Maybe your wines aren’t dusty, but I bet they’re good. Especially if they come from the current crop of new arrivals, such as...

There’s a story, told in many languages and cultures, about this foxy fellow, the shapeshifter, the trickster, who sometimes is known as Reynard, or Rounard, or whatever fits. This agile, furry friend pops up, stealing hearts and minds, in a kind of thievish ballet, and leaves behind, in his/her wake, a bottle of wine in exchange for the fat hen he/she’s plumped off with. A tasty legend, but here’s the down-to-earth skinny. The wine is named Renard 2003 Syrah, and it hails from California, by way of Sonoma. Not your average red-tailed rogue, but smooth, with big teeth that get smaller with a little airtime. We enjoyed it with a scrambled egg/onion/garlic/sausage combo, and it was delightful. This red is no overblown, too-plump-to-stand-up confection. The wine is lean, but not sere, or arid, like some too-dry French Syrahs. Look for it on Friday, the 8th. It’s $16.99, save $2.00, and well worth the one-to-two-hour wait for it to open up and give you a high-five.

Next up, a Pinot Noir from Napa, and it’s a pleasure to be adding it to our shelves. You’re probably familiar with Aquinas Cabernet, a ‘Best Buy’ if there ever was one. Now we have a sumptuous red that makes a pretty big splash for $9.99, save $4.00. The 2005 Aquinas Pinot Noir is slow to open, but once it does, you find a silky, strawberry/raspberry/herbal bouquet that is quite beguiling. Napa doesn’t seem to be the ideal environment for the noble Pinot grape, but those wizards at Aquinas manage to find the rabbit every time. Show me a better California Pinot for $9.99, and I’ll buy it; but until then...Arriving Friday, the 8th.

For the most part part, I’m usually a chardonnay-avoider, unless someone cries out, “I’m special!” or “Don’t be so elitist!” or “ Care for some $200 dollar Montrachet?” Our next entry won’t set you back too far, and is a very well made wine that someone bought too much of and needs to now make it go away. Good for us, because the 2003 Echelon Chardonnay is just what the chardonnay doctor ordered. Light on the oak, bright fruit, with a twist of crisp lemon and a mildly nutty finish. I am buying twenty cases, and when it’s gone. it’s gone. Trouble is, the price is not yet settled! I’m hoping to let it go for $5.99. Hopefully, I won’t have to print a retraction. Look for it on Friday, the 8th.

Lastly, also arriving on Friday, the 8th, is a wonderful blend from Hedges Vineyards, called CSM. (No relation to the TV show.) If you’ve ever been graced with the powerhouse ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet blend, at $24.99, no shrinking violet, then you will see the pedigree, only writ a bit smaller. It’s Cabernet, Merlot, and a smidgen of Syrah. The nose is flowery and quite pretty, with a base of cocoa/mocha. It’s soft, but not flabby, and would grace a plate of fries and a Portabello “burger” quite nicely. If you’re a closet Merlot fan, (Curse you! Paul Giamatti!), then hold your head high. This one’s for you. $11.99, save  $1.

Don’t forget!

The wine tasting at the Flat St. Pub, downstairs, on Friday the 15th, from  5:30-8:00, looms ever closer. Great wine, really great food, and convivial company, not to mention doorprizes, await you for $15 per person. Get your tickets QUICK! at the Co-op wine department, or at the Customer Service Desk if I am not in the building. Cash or checks, only. Tickets are $20 at the door, on the night of the tasting. See you there.

New and Hot

Here are some recently tasted wines, due to arrive on Friday, Nov. 10. All will pair nicely with turkey or goose, with the exception of the ‘Eloge’ cabernet. Only one is under 9.99, but the rest are about celebrating, spoiling yourself and your friends. As Bernie says, share the wealth!

•‘04 Encore-(California)-Unusual white blend, made from five grapes, off-dry, elegant-14.99-save 2.00

•’05 Morgan ‘Metallico’Chardonnay-(California)-The first California chardonnay that’s made me go WOW! in a long time. True French Chablis style, fresh and steely, very silky, lovely nose. This Monterey white is a subtle knockout!-19.99

•’04 Frog’s Leap Chardonnay-(California)-This organic white is actually bio-dynamic, and loaded with aromas and flavors of green apples, and fresh laundry. Smooth, not too heavy, and very crisp.-25.99

•’05 Evans and Tate Chardonnay-(Australia)-Similar to the Morgan, though a little leaner, and less ‘French,’ but the fruit is more assertive, with melon and pineapple aromas and essences. Great example of the progress being made ‘down under’-16.99

‘04 Acacia’Winery Lake Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-(Napa-Carneros)-A big, slightly mononlithic red, with deep, deep flavors: chocolate, dried strawberries, tobacco and leather, plum and spicebox. Decant this when the bird goes in the oven, and it’ll be ready when you sit down for dinner. Or put it down for a couple years. 29.99

•’01 Taurino Salice Salentino-(Italy)-A silky smooth blend of Negromaro and Nero d’Avola, and the BEST example of this wine in years. Quintessential Italian nose, all cherries, herbs, and licorice stick. I bought all that was available, and we won’t see more until mid-December. SALE PRICE 9.99-save 3.00

•’01 Castello diBossi Chianti Classico-(Italy-Tuscany)-This ‘01 is actually a riserva. Marco Bocci leaves off the designation for ‘reasons Italian’ and it makes no matter to me. You get oodles of cherry, licorice, and toasty oak flavors and aromas.The soil is chalky, and that nice dried fruit flavor comes right through. SALE PRICE 19.99-save 5.00.

•’00 Reserva Montecillo Rioja-(Spain)-We sell a ton of the ‘01 red label Montecillo. This is the big sister, who is strong, but mellow. A great example of what a mature Rioja can be. SALE PRICE 16.99-save 3.00.

•’00 Anderson’s Conn Valley Cabernet ‘Eloge’-(Napa)-A meritage blend, (American bordeaux style) of cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot. Not a heavy hitter, (the name means ‘praiseworthy’) but very big flavored, without the too-toasty oak to weigh it down. Lots of chocolate, some eucalyptus aromas, and a subtle, nuanced finish. SALE PRICE 27.99.

•’03 Dom. du Gros Nore-(France-Bandol)-We sold about forty cases of the 2000 Bandol about a year ago, at a fabulous closeout price, a ‘gift’ from the distributor. This 2003 is equal to it, even though it’s pretty young. The flavors are saturated, balanced, and harmonious. The nose is all lavender, and you may want to just sit and sniff the gorgeous aromas emanating from your glass. When you’re ready, though, the flavors are, too. Deep chocolate, cocoa, strawberry/raspberry and a brambly undertone, almost like a passing breeze filled with fresh rosemary. A spectacular wine, ready to decant and enjoy. It’ll stand up to cranberry sauce, too. It’s 24.99, and unfortunately, available only in very limited quantities.